black – Dog Puppy Behavior Training Help

This article has a dual purpose. 1) to point out features of leather and nylon dog training leashes; 2) to provide a direct link for those who want to purchase a leather dog training lead for the best price.

There are many choices among dog equipment and supplies. Some tools are better for some situations. Over the years, I have refined my list of favorite dog training supplies. I used to shop online at pet speciality supply stores, but now I can purchase the items through Amazon.

I’ll say it now. I prefer leather leashes. The benefits are discussed in this article. Generally speaking, leather leashes cost more than nylon leashes. But that is not always the case. It depends on where you buy your leash. If you shop wisely, you can purchase a leather leash for just a bit more than a nylon leash. The leather leash at Amazon, linked in this article is priced to sell! I’ve paid more for nylon leashes!

Nylon leashes have benefits too. If you like color, forget about leather. Another concern for some users is the ability to sterilize the leash. A leather leash is not a good choice for vet clinics, shelters, rescue organizations, etc., because you cannot wash and sterilize the leather leashes. If you are in this situation, choose a nylon leash.

Leashes come in all lengths. There are traffic leads of 2 feet. There are long lines, which are 8 to 100 feet long. In this article, I am discussing training leads of 4-6 feet in length, with clasps that snap onto the dog’s equipment.

Leashes come in different widths too. Wider is not necessarily better. Generally speaking, the wider the leash, the heavier the clasp. Choose a width that fits your hand and your dog. A 1″ wide leash doesn’t fit into small hands very well. Ladies, children and men with smaller hands will like a 3/8″ – 1/2″ wide leash. Compared to a smaller lead, the clasp on a 1″ wide leash will be huge, and too heavy for a 15 lb. dog! If you have a 5 lb. yorkie or other toy breed, a 1/4″ leather or nylon will be fine.

I use a 1/4″ leather lead to walk Bentley, my 18 lb. terrier.
When I handle a 25-75 lb. dog, I use a 3/8″ or 1/2″ wide leather leash.
If the dog is 80 lbs or more, I’ll use a hefty 5/8″ leather leash.

My general training leashes are 5 or 6 feet in length. A shorter leash may be helpful if you have trouble controlling your dog in traffic.

Here’s a link to the best price for a braided, 6 foot, 1/2″ leather leash.

A good training leash has several functions. First, it should function. The snap should be easy to operate and fail proof. I dislike the lobster claw and variations of a spring loaded snap (without a knob). I’ve seen more than one person holding an empty leash in their hands when the clasps failed! I’ve never experienced a failure with a bolt snap type of clasp. A bolt snap has a spring loaded knob you slide down to open the hook.

Next, a leash should be durable. The fewer seams in the leash, the better! Nylon leashes are stitches or stapled. The joints will eventually fail, and the nylon material will deteriorate over time. Leather leashes are stitched, stapled, or braided. The braided leather leashes will last a lifetime (unless you let your dog chew it).

The leash should be easy to hold and grip.
You should never slide the handle end of the leash onto your arm, like a bracelet.
That’s the danger zone!

Nylon leashes are okay for grip, but they compress in your hands. You’ll need a wider nylon leash, because the slick nylon is difficult to grip. You’ll exert more pressure on your hand muscles hanging on to a nylon leash. A leather leash is easier to grip. Leather doesn’t compress and change shapes. Of course, you can always form a knot at just the right spot, in either style leash to get a better grip.

In the picture, Sparky is not wearing a training leash. He’s sporting a home made, 8′ tether!

Happy Training!

Alan J Turner – How’s Bentley – Memphis TN
Reactive Dog Workshops

Some of my clients repeat a cue or command to their Memphis labrador retriever puppy or dog many times, either in efforts to get the behaviors, or to keep the behaviors. For example, many people repeat the word sit when their dogs don’t sit on the first command.

Saying stay…stay…stay… while walking away and extending your hand out like a stop signal is another common example.

I have a set of “loose” rules for repeating commands. Generally speaking, I use one technique with dogs that are learning or practicing. Another is for dogs that have learned and practiced a command (in a similar environment) and are not cooperating.

Sometimes it’s difficult to know if the dog is not cooperating or genuinely confused.

Unless I am certain that the dog can perform under the current circumstances, I always address the situation as if the dog is learning. I try to help the dog perform the behavior.

In other instances, I might treat the dog as if he is both learning and not cooperating.

Dogs Who are Learning, Practicing and Cooperating

Before I repeat the command, first I change something about my body language, the dog’s position, or both. Then I ask again. These position changes are quick, fluid and sometimes unnoticed by an observer. I may change position several times as I try to get a particular behavior.

Some of the adjustments involve only my positioning and body language. Others prompt the dog to change position.

For instance, suppose I ask for sit. If the dog doesn’t sit, I might lean towards the dog with my upper body or lead the dog a step or two to the left or right and try again.

If I am seated (when I ask the first time), I stand up. I might move a step closer to the dog, or take a step farther away, or bend forward, or tilt back, or square my shoulders, or kneel down, or whatever I feel might be helpful. After one or many of these small adjustments, I’ll repeat the command.

Some dogs need more help to get started.

With these guys, I’ll ask for “shake” or “touch” or whatever tricks or behaviors the dogs will perform. After the dogs perform, I ask for the initial behavior again.

When I do anything that causes a dog to move, I’m prompting cooperation.

The act of encouraging the dog to move creates a tension break, a sort of casual conversation. It gives the dog a chance to warm up to the whole cooperation idea!

Eliciting muscle movements primes the dog to perform other motion behaviors. It’s like pushing a car. Once you get the car rolling, it’s easier to keep it rolling and to steer it!

Dogs Who are not Cooperating

If I am working with a dog with all of these attributes, A) knows the behavior, B) can do the behavior in the current environment, C) has done the behavior in the current environment, I rarely repeat commands with only a position change.

Instead, I tell the dog that he or she has failed to cooperate and I am disappointed.

Here’s how I do it.

Suppose I ask for sit and the dog just looks at me. Instead of repeating the command, I turn and walk away. For the next 5-10 seconds, I ignore any attempts by the dog to get my attention. After this brief time out, I turn and face the dog and ask again. The dog quickly learns that I only ask one time!

Happy Training!

Alan J Turner – Companion Animal Behavior Counselor & Trainer, Canine Specialization

How’s Bentley – Private and Group Dog Obedience

Memphis, Collierville, Bartlett, Cordova, Germantown, Arlington, Jackson, Olive Branch,Oxford, MS, TN

Tag: black

Review:Dog Training Leash – Leather vs. Flat Nylon